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Independently owned, organic grocery store. Our Annex serves prepared foods and offers a selection of wine and beer. Our florists are here to help you with fresh local cuts and dried bouquets.

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Home / Archives for Wine Words and Beer Notes

Why Drive to Napa?

September 28, 2016 by WineAndBeer

Taste 30 small production wines at the ANNEX for just $10!

We are hosting our 5th bi-annual Grand Wine Tasting and Price Crush Wine Sale. On Sunday, October 9th from 2 to 5pm come to the Prepared Food Annex (10387 San Pablo Avenue) to taste 30 wines by artisan producers. The ticket price for the event is $10. This may be the most affordable wine tasting event in the Bay Area!

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Annex Wine & Beer handpicks products to bring you clean, natural, sustainably-produced wines, a large number of which are certified organic and biodynamic.

If you would like to read more about us and other natural wine shops in the East Bay, check out this article.

Filed Under: Annex, Blog, Events, Special Events, Wine Spotlight, Wine Words and Beer Notes Tagged With: Biodynamic Wine, Dry-Farmed Wine, Grand Wine Tasting, Natural Wine, Organic Wine, Price Crush, Sustainable Wine, Wine Sale, Wine Tasting

Winemaker Interview

July 29, 2016 by The Natural Grocery Company

Yamakiri: Lisa Bauer Interview

By Jake Wright, Annex Wine & Beer Buyer/Manager`

Yamakiri Wines

Some of my favorite wines here at Annex Wine & Beer come from Lisa Bauer of Yamakiri Wines. A relative newcomer to the winemaking world, Lisa managed by pluck and luck to bring forth distinctive, unique wines that speak vividly of the places they come from and the hands by which they are made. Her wines have been a hit with our customers. At our recent spring wine tasting, they were clear standouts.

I am grateful Lisa chose our store to hawk her wines. That is how I met her, when she walked through the door with a business card, a firm handshake, and a great story. When I tasted her wines, it was clear I was experiencing something special. Some wines are distinctly a reflection of their maker, and Lisa’s are no exception: outspoken, gregarious, and willing to push the edge. Yet the wines (like Lisa) also have depth, a soulful dimension that invites reflection. Camaraderie and reverie in the same glass.

Lisa’s first career was in the world of recycling, first in San Francisco and finally at UC Berkeley. Her wine appreciation evolved over the years, but at the core of her experience is memories of her German father who imported wines from Germany. It was with her father in 1979 that she made her first trip to the Anderson Valley. One destination was Navarro Winery, because they had German varietals like Riesling and made wines like Edelzwicker. Thus Lisa began a love affair with the region where she now lives.

As her own wine palate matured, she found herself appreciating European wines more and more. She sought out smaller wines shops and learned from their proprietors. Then, following her close-to-the-land, DIY spirit, she started to make wine at home. Her first attempts were by the book, with lots of measuring and manipulation. By following the rules, her wines turned out good, if a bit jammy to her taste.

Around this time Lisa acquired some property near Yorkville, high above Highway 128 in southern Mendocino County. In 2009, an abundant year for grapes, a neighbor offered her some free Pinot Noir—second pick—she jumped on it and pulled in a quarter ton. This wine she started with native yeast and very little manipulation, and the results were stunning. She knew she was on to something.

At the bottom of her road, another neighbor had a field of derelict grapes. These grapes—Sauvignon Blanc—were feral, unkempt, and feeding the birds. Her winemaking friends, seeing the quality of the grapes (even in their neglected state), asked Lisa to ask the neighbor if they could pick them. The answer came back no; another ask, another no, and so on. After nearly giving up, Lisa finally asked if she could pick the grapes for herself, and the answer was “yes: but you have to take all of them.”

Now, 2½ acres of grapevines would yield a far larger amount of fruit than she had ever worked with before.  A little spreadsheet analysis, a candid call to a custom crush facility, and some good advice from friends convinced her that she could do it. “But I didn’t think I was going to sell it. I thought I was just going to have a whole lot of white wine to give away as gifts.”

When Lisa first tasted the young wine, she thought “this is delicious!” A professional winemaker friend, Alex Crangle, replied “yes, these are really good grapes. And they were abandoned? Can you drink all this? You should sell it.”

“What?! I’ve got to get permits, I’ve got to get licenses, I’ve got to…” But the allure of having a saleable product proved too enticing to refuse. Jumping through the hoops, Lisa was in business.

At this point Alex Crangle became Lisa’s winemaking partner in the emerging adventure.  It is a creative partnership, with each bringing balancing strengths and talents, but resting on a shared philosophical bedrock. It began with Lisa sharing what she wanted: a dry wine that tastes of terroir, with nothing added to it, save a small amount of SO2 [sulfur dioxide] at bottling. And she had an idea that she would find older, dry-farmed, ignored vineyards as sources. Then Alex handed her a copy of One Straw Revolution, by Masanobu Fukuoka. She had read it back in her co-op days, but this time she read it “with completely different eyes.”

Fukuoka is known for his natural, no-till, “do-nothing” organic farming techniques, and through this lens Lisa saw the potential in the abandoned, derelict, and marginal vineyards she was discovering. This of course dovetailed into her earlier work ethics:  “That’s also my recycling background. That’s ‘waste not, want not.’ If I hear about something not getting used, it pains me.”

So with a nod to Fukuoka, and acknowledging her own land, her Yorkville property that often sits just above the fog line, Yamakiri—Japanese for “foggy mountain”—was born.  Under the heading “Found Wine,” their website sums up their approach:

Our intent in making wine is simple: we tend older vineyards, pressing them into gentle use. We seek low-till and dry-farmed vineyards for their depth and low yield. We let native grasses grow because vitality and diversity in the vineyard translate to a distinct expression of terroir and produce wine with a light footprint.  We work closely with the land and its stewards in an effort to craft exceptional and unique wines.

Speaking of “found” wine, Alex knew of a few barrels of Syrah that were rejected by one winemaker for being “too smoky.” But Alex and Lisa saw the potential.  And, as Lisa observes: “Alex really, really gets how not to mess with wine. He’s patient, and he has a palate that allows him to taste forward and anticipate what it’s going to taste like.” This wine became the stunning “Papillon de Nuit.” Alas, it is truly a unique wine, since the vineyard that it came from has been torn out.* Then came a rosé, a blend of press rosé and red and white, and before Lisa knew it, she had a product line.

Still, it hasn’t all been roses. “A lot of the older vineyards I had my eyes on died last year. They didn’t make it; they couldn’t last through three years of drought.” And while Lisa loves the concentrated flavors older, dry-farmed grapes give, there is a lot more work involved. Nevertheless, she’s looking ahead to planting her own vines on her property, to be dry farmed biodynamically, but thinking forward to warmer and drier conditions that appear to be in store for California.

When I ask Lisa to describe her wines, she demurs. “I’m not good at characterizing in any one way. They’re like children. They all have their own character.”

But I press her, to speak generally if possible.

“They are just at the edge of what the varietal dictates. I like pushing that, expanding that. We pick at lower brix. I don’t like high alcohol, I don’t like anything heavy or jammy. I think it obfuscates the rest of the flavors that are there. Racy, edgy, the complexity of the grape, not anything else.”

I can certainly agree to that, and I think a lot of our customers find that to be true, as well. Finally, I ask her:  how does it feel being a small fish in big pond?

Here is where Lisa lights up, the scrappy passion coming through: “It’s clear to me, that in the midst of all the hype and drivel and marketing bull**** driven by these massive companies, there’s still room for human interaction and small producers that have unique products and interesting stories. I think that’s pretty cool. And I never thought I would be on the receiving end of it… I was always one of those people looking for that product. And now I’m making it.  How cool is that?”

Very cool. And the proof is in the glass, right under our noses.

In stock:

 

Yamakiri “Papillon de Nuit” Syrah

Mendocino Ridge 2012

$23.99

*As of this writing, we have seven bottles left to sell before it is gone forever.

Yamakiri “Filligreen Farm” Pinot Noir

Anderson Valley 2014

$27.99

Yamakiri Rosé

Anderson Valley 2014

$18.99

Yamakiri Sauvignon Blanc

Yorkville Highlands 2014

$23.99

For more information, visit: http://www.yamakiriwines.com/

Filed Under: Annex, Blog, Organic farming, Sustainability, Wine Words and Beer Notes Tagged With: Alex Crangle, Bioodynamic, Dry Farming, Lisa Bauer, Local Producer, Masanobu Fukuoka, One Straw Revolution, Organic, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Sustainable Production, Syrah wine, Wine

New Arrival!

July 26, 2016 by The Natural Grocery Company

Down Under Delight!

By Jake Wright

While all of our wines shine, every now and then we bring in a standout that we really want you to know about.  Just in, the Pyramid Valley 2015 Marlborough Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc is a wine of such vibrancy and focus I just have to sing its praises. There is a lot going on in this complex beauty: intense aromatics that open with time, a lush nuanced palate, and a long, lingering, beguiling finish.

It was a standout even among other wines from Pyramid Valley, as I discovered recently when I tasted with winemaker Claudia Weersing here at Annex Wine & Beer. She and her husband Mike surely do make some of the world’s eminent natural wines, with deep devotion to biodynamic principles and the expression of their unique terroir.

This is a wine that takes you places.

Pyramid Valley

Hutchison Family Vineyard, Marlborough

Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc 2015

$32.99

Also available from Claudia and Mike:

Pyramid Valley

Angel Flower Pinot Noir

Canterbury 2009

$73.99

Weersing & JW (1)

Jake Wright (Annex Wine & Beer Buyer/Manager) and Claudia Weersing (Co-proprietor of Pyramid Valley Vineyards) just after a phenomenal tasting of her wines.

Filed Under: Annex, Wine Spotlight, Wine Words and Beer Notes

Wine Spotlight

June 2, 2016 by The Natural Grocery Company

Loving the Lighter Reds

By Jake Wright, Annex Wine & Beer Buyer/Manager

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My love affair. It almost didn’t happen at all. It was a chance meeting, but it irrevocably, irreversibly turned my world upside down.

My wife made a simple seafood stew, with rockfish, shrimp, some clams and mussels – a working parent’s cioppino. Now, what wine to pair with this? I didn’t want a white, and pairing a red felt like a little too much. I was about to default to a rosé when I remembered I had already picked out a wine, by reputation only, for a meal just like this.

This wine was a Rossese di Dolceacqua, a light and savory red wine from the Lugurian region of Italy.  Think Genoa, La Spezia, even Cinque Terre. This is a rugged land that lives in close relation to the sea, and like all Italian cuisine, the wines and foods of the regions evolved together in time-tested harmony. This is seafood country, with simple stews like my wife made as common fare.

The wine poured a tawny, almost brick-like red. It had intense fruit aroma, with herbal and woody undertones. It was very light bodied, and upon tasting, the savory, herbal notes were enticingly apparent. A bite of stew, then another sip of wine… and that’s when Cupid shot his little vinous arrow. What a heavenly match!  It was one of those elusive, serendipitous moments when the whole far outweighed the sum of the parts.  That Rosesse and that stew danced together in the most delightful, delectable, delicious way.

I read somewhere that if you find Rossese in the States, it’s because someone really loved this wine and felt it needed to be imported. This is not anyone’s definition of commercial success, but rather a soulful appreciation for obscure, underdog varietals rooted in local traditions and cuisine. In fact, Rossese is deeply rooted along that part of the Mediterranean coast, and thrives even west into Provence, where it is known as Tibouren (and largely made into rosés).

Luckily, I work with an importer who found a lovely Rossese made by a committed, salt-of-the-earth winemaker named Danila Pisano.  If the best wines are a reflection of their maker, then Danila is surely humble, strong, earthy, and mischievous by turns (and by all accounts, she is). She and her longtime boyfriend Tino (whose family owned the vines) work the dizzyingly steep slopes and terraces to bring forth low yields of this thin-skinned, light red grape. It is a labor of love (emphasis on labor) that brings this delicious, relatively unknown wine to our shores.1

But for those who know, the grape and its wine is a delight. Even the iconoclastic Randall Graham of Bonny Doon calls Rossese “one of the coolest grapes on the planet.”2 I wholeheartedly agree, and I am grateful my fortuitous discovery happened to be with one of those meals that take both food and wine into the stratosphere. I had never experienced the pleasures of light, gamey, savory red wines before.

Did it really turn my world upside down? Well, it certainly opened the door to a whole world of heretofore unknown pleasures.  You see, now I chase after all light and bright reds, from snappy Gamays to minerally Zwiegelts, fruity Grolleaus to funky Pipeños.  Put a slight chill on any of these, and savor the warmth of summer and its lighter cuisine.

Wines:

Danila Pisano Rossese di Dolceacqua 2014, $19.99

La Galoche Beaujolais 2014, $14.99

Familie Maier Zweigelt 2014, 1L, $14.99

Les Hautes Noëlles “HéHo” Gamay/Grolleau 2015, $14.99

Viña Maitia “Aupa” Pipeño (Pais) 2015, $10.99

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Filed Under: Annex, Blog, Wine Spotlight, Wine Words and Beer Notes

Hot & Cold

May 27, 2016 by The Natural Grocery Company

Hot & Cold

By Jake Wright, Annex Wine & Beer Buyer/Manager

 

It’s almost June and we’ve only had a few hot days this spring. It’s true that in the East Bay, especially our area (situated as we are directly across from the Golden Gate), that we rarely get too hot. But it does happen, and hot days demand one thing: cold beer!

 

Earlier this year we (the Wine & Beer department) made a lot of people happy when we took over a cooler across the aisle to expand our 6-pack selection. We effectively tripled our offerings, as well as increasing our selection of ciders and gluten-reduced and gluten–free beverages. Here, we aim to have something for everyone!

 

There is a style of beer we are seeing more of these days that is a perfect summer refresher, and this is gose (goes-uh), a style that originated in northwestern Germany. Like a Berliner Weisse, gose has wheat in addition to barley, as well as a tart acidity from Lactobacillus; like a Witbier, it has coriander spice; but unlike either, it is brewed with a pinch of salt that delivers a lip-smacking freshness.

 

Now, I do call this a “buyer beware” beer. It’s not your typical, hoppy brew. It’s tart, so if Kombucha and other sour beverages are not your thing, probably gose won’t be, either. Personally, if I’m looking for that traditional beer flavor satisfaction, I’ll head to the hops. But if the party’s on and I’m sweating over a fiery grill, I’m gonna grab me a gose!

 

Sierra Nevada added Otra Vez Gose to their core line-up, knowing they had a hit on their hands.  Otra Vez also has prickly pear fruit and grapefruit added as well. A bit of a bold move, since a traditional hoppy beer this is not. But it’s beer nonetheless, a revival of a traditional style and a great product of the brewing renaissance we are living in right now. Thank you, I’ll have another!  $9.99/6-pack

 

Sudwerk in Davis, CA, has also jumped on the gose bandwagon, with a couple of twists.  Long-known as one of the West Coast’s best lager breweries, Sudwerk made their gose with lager yeast and fresh navel oranges from nearby Winters.  With an orange, citrusy profile, their Farmers’ Market Citrus Gose Lager goes down (gose down?) easily… perhaps too  easily!  $11.99/6-pack

 

I’m looking forward to a few hot days ahead!  Cheers!

Filed Under: Wine Words and Beer Notes

Wine Spotlight

September 1, 2015 by WineAndBeer

HORSE & PLOW “THE GARDENER” Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2012

The Pinot Noir for this bottling came from Robert Sinskey’s Scintilla Vineyard in the Sonoma portion of Carneros. Aged in French oak barrels for 10 months and bottled without fining or filtration, to preserve complexity and character. Enchanting nuances of rose petal and forest floor lift primary notes of red cherry, raspberry and blue plum. The palate shows balanced acidity, well -integrated tannins and elegance. 200 cases produced. Pair with lightly smoked meats, mushrooms and savory herbed vegetable dishes.

Regular price: $33.99; Sale price: $29.99

Filed Under: Wine Words and Beer Notes

Wine Spotlight

August 1, 2015 by WineAndBeer

Phil ‘ en Bulle NV “Pet Nat ”

A Petillant Natural (naturally sparkling) wine made from the Menu Pineau and Romorantin grapes. This is the wine to wake you up, lay you down and make sweet love to your taste buds. This amazing beverage is not the least bit serious , and is perhaps one of the most enticing in Philippe Tessier’s line up. Enjoy it fresh and frothy with friends and snacks at a park or on a beach or in a bath with the window open and a breeze sifting through the curtains. This wine is hot, hot, hot among somms and wine geeks so grab a bottle before it’s gone.

Thank us later! $23.99.

Filed Under: Wine Words and Beer Notes

Wine Spotlight

July 1, 2015 by WineAndBeer

WINEMAKER NAME 
DONKEY & GOAT, Isabel’s Cuvee, Rosé of Grenache, 2014

Jared and Tracey Brandt live just up the hill in El Cerrito. Their much anticipated pink, named after their oldest daughter, is made from 100+ year old Grenache Gris vines. This year they made 50% like a white wine with whole cluster press to neutral French Oak barrel. The other 50% was de-stemmed and left to soak on the skins for 24 hours in an open top wood vat before pressing and then on to neutral barrels. Spontaneous fermentation occurred in barrel followed by naturally occurring malolactic fermentation. Bottled unfined and unfiltered on February 23, 2015. The wine is nearly sold out at the winery so grab a bottle while you can for $25.99.

Filed Under: Wine Words and Beer Notes

Happy Summer! Seasonal Selections

June 1, 2015 by WineAndBeer

The sun is shining (hopefully!) and friends are gathering. So, what wine to select? Consider the context. Taste is dependent on the surroundings, mood and food on the plate.

I like to think about the wine on my table or at an event as another invited guest. A party is more pleasant when all the people gathering have some sort of rapport and coalesce with harmony. So, what might some convivial company look like?

Hot sun + low alcohol wine = joy. Why? Because then the wine becomes a refreshing beverage rather than a sleep inducing, hang-over inviting cocktail.

Summer fruits and cured meats + a trocken Riesling will highlight the floral musky qualities of the fruit and bring out the savory flavors of the meats.

Meat and seafood paella + an unoaked Tempranillo or Monastrell (for reds) or a Viura or unoaked Chardonnay (if you prefer whites) to complement the sweetness of rice and the salty richness of the meat and fish.

Watermelon, feta and mint salad + a dry rose or aromatic, dry white like Muscatel would be excellent to bring out the sweet savor of the salad!

We’d love to hear about your food and wine pairings! Share it on Twitter (@wine_ecng)

June Recipe and Wine Pairing: Fig & Arugula Salad with Pistachio Pesto; paired with Holloran Dry Riesling, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2011

Salad Ingredients:

2 big handfuls of arugula
8-10 figs, sliced into halves or quarters
½ avocado, cubed
1 ball of Burrata or Mozzarella, torn
a few splashes of balsamic (reduce in a saucepan to thicken)
drizzle of olive oil
sea salt & freshly ground pepper
Pistachio Pesto: (this makes extra):

⅓ cup toasted pistachios (reserve a few to top the salad)
1 big handful of basil leaves
juice of ½ a small lemon
sea salt & freshly ground pepper
¼ – ⅓ cup olive oil
Make pesto by pulsing the toasted pistachios in a food processor. Then add basil, lemon, salt & pepper. Pulse again, then add the olive oil and pulse. Taste and adjust salt content.

Arrange the arugula, sliced figs, avocado, and cheese on a plate. Drizzle with olive oil and balsamic. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Dollop pesto and gently toss. Crush extra pistachios and sprinkle them on top.

Salad recipe from: loveandlemons.com

 

Filed Under: Wine Words and Beer Notes

The Farmer and the CEO?

April 15, 2015 by WineAndBeer

Wine made in the vineyard

You may have read some of the headlines about wines that tested positive for excessive arsenic. If not, a quick google search will turn up lots of results. My point is not to discuss the merits or truth of the claim, but rather to explore the alternative to those big, industrial wineries who may or may not know why arsenic is turning up in their wine. Since April is the month for Earth Day, let’s take a closer look at makers of wine who also actually work in the vineyards.

The French have a term for it—vigneron—which refers to a person who grows the grapes and makes the wine. This kind of connection with the land is almost unheard of in big corporate wineries. But, if we believe—as so many wineries say—that wine is made in the vineyard, then winemakers and perhaps winery owners should spend time there.

One of the alternatives to a vigneron is a négociant—the French word for a wine merchant who assembles the product of smaller growers and winemakers and sells the result.

A third way to make wine is perhaps the most common among the new California cohort of winemakers. Winemakers take out long term leases on vineyards, hire vineyard managers whose farming practices align with their own vision for the wine and planet, and visit the vineyards regularly to stay attuned with the growing season and soil health. Dirty & Rowdy is an excellent example of this approach. See this month’s featured wine for details.

The corporate model most commonly practiced is to purchase the land, hire a site manager, and employ migrant labor to routinely apply fertilizers and pesticides. Nowadays, drones are utilized to photograph vineyards and generate data to be analyzed by distant winemakers at corporate headquarters—hardly a boots-on-the- ground or grape-in-the-mouth familiarity with the land, vines, and vintage.

Our Earth Day proposal is to drink wine made by people who get their fingers in the dirt and whose children or pets are safe to roam in the vineyards! Our selection is chock-full of Earth Day friendly wines. So drink to your health and to the health of the planet!

“My only regret in life is that I didn’t drink more wine.” ― Ernest Hemingway

We’d love to hear what you are drinking right now! Share it on Twitter (@wine_ecng)

Why drink “natural” wine? The best ones have exceptional flavor, complexity, and surprise. They cause a reaction and carry you away to their place of origin. Lower sulfur addition is another reason to love “naked” wines. Sulfur can act like a seal, keeping the wine safe from microbial alteration. To eliminate it, or use very little of it (sulfur in wine is allowed up to 350 parts per million; natural-wine people only use up to 35ppm) the vineyard work must be impeccable and the cellar work, hypervigilant. The resulting beverage can sometimes have a slight acetic tang or a hint of funk. Fans aren’t bothered by these quirks, technically called “flaws,” and the wines are hugely popular across the globe. As with organic food, the demand is greater than the supply.

Wine of the Month (while supplies last):

DIRTY & ROWDY

“Familiar” Mourvèdre, California 2013

Five hundred miles of California in a glass! This wine is an argument in favor of blending different vineyards and appellations for optimal balance. Dirty & Rowdy is owned by two families who travel to remote pockets of California, searching to uncover something special from soil, sun, and soul. “Familiar” is a fresh, medium-bodied wine to pour when friends, family, and food pull you home. Notes of raspberry leaf and stem with tarragon and stone. The “Familiar” should be decanted for 45 minutes for full enjoyment! The grapes (94% Mourvèdre, 6% Petite Sirah) hail from Santa Barbara County, Redwood Valley in Mendocino, and Amador County. 100% Whole Cluster. 270 Cases. Allocated. Price: $34.99.

(Pssst! Mention reading WINE WORDS and we will give you 10% off this wine at the register!)

Filed Under: Blog, Wine Words and Beer Notes

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